Temaikén

Whilst in Buenos Aires, Argentina, I visited the “eco park” at Temaikén. It is situated less than an hour from Buenos Aires city centre and houses endangered and less endangered species, including my favourites, tigers.

There is also a large collection of exotic birds. Parrots, flamingos etc. It was also the place that I discovered that I may have gone through a major change. I may have become child tolerant, although this by no means certain. There were lots of school children in various age groups, touring the park and they did not spoil my day. Strange!

There was an aquarium with a diver cleaning the glass. I trust he is a well paid window cleaner as there were sharks in the aquarium.

Shark bait.

Aquarium

Aquarium

Aquarium

Old Guard

Various species of birds…

Parrot

One toucan.

Pair of parrots.

A bird.

Feather in the cap?

Red parrot.

…and predators.

Cheetah

Siberian Tiger

Tiger

Tiger

Hungry Bird

Gotcha!!

Siberian Tiger

Click on photos to enlarge and for a slideshow.

Iguazu Falls Part 2

Continuing the account of my visit to Iguazu Falls, which is Argentina, on the borders with Paraguay and Brazil

After the great boat ride with, Nestor, on the Eco Tour, it was back to the cataratas.

Don´t look down.

Rocky

Hi down there!

They go on forever…

…and ever.

Minor confluence.

Cascades

More cascades.

Roaring.

What? No people?

Beautiful.

Spray.

After a spot of lunch, it was on to the powerboat ride into the falls. But first, a ride through the jungle to get to the embarkation point.

Coati on a lunch break.

Jungle ride.

Amazing, blue bird.

Toucan

The power boat.

On the river bank.

Rapids

Getting wet.

Up close.

I have video footage of the boat ride into the falls but can´t upload it at this time. The connection here is too slow.

After the boat ride I walked back along part of the route the boat had taken and then left the falls feeling exhausted. I was there for 10 hours and it was a full on day for me.

Iguazu

Iguazu

Iguazu

Iguazu

Iguazu

Iguazu

 

 

 

Iguazu Falls

From San Carlos de Bariloche, I travelled by bus to Puerto Iguazu via Buenos Aires. A journey of more than 40m hours. Although it was a long journey, it did give me a great perspective of Argentina. The sheer size of the country, plus the variety of the ever changing landscape. I was also content as I was nearing the last destination on my current list of places to visit. Lucky me!!

Iguazu Falls is truly a “wonder of the world”.

Guardian

Starting to Look Interesting

Lovely

Devil´s Throat

Speechless

Viewing point for the “Devil´s Throat”.

From the Devil´s Throat, I made my way to the next part of my trip, which was to be the “Eco Tour”. There were some distractions along the way.

Bird

Pretty Bird

Coati eating my cereal bar. (he/she stole it from me)

Inflatables for the Eco tour.

My good fortune continued as I was the only person to turn up for this particular boat ride. Too many people usually means, too much noise and as consequence, not much to see. Not so with just me and my guide/boatman on board.

Nestor

Not to close to the edge please.

A word in your shell-like

Another pretty bird.

Nice bird.

Monkey

More monkey business.

Click on any image to enlarge or for slide show.

 

 

Kayaking in Bariloche

After being tipped out of the raft on the rapids the day before, I was looking forward to a nice couple of hours kayaking on Lake Gutierrez. That is exactly what I got. There were just 5 people plus 2 experts. We were put into 2 man kayaks. I was with Marco, one of the trainers. Pablo, the other trainer, was in a one man kayak.

After a brief period of instruction, we set off.

Setting Off

Romina and Richard

Pablo

Myself with Marco

Window in the rock.

Idyllic

It was a lovely, tranquil setting and we went at a gentle pace to enjoy the scenery. We also stopped for breakfast.

Marco, preparing breakfast.

Instruction continues while we have breakfast.

Cool, clear water.

Breakfast

After breakfast, we returned to the starting point, at the same leisurely pace.

Dead in the water.

Carrancha?

Fran and Sam

Duck?

Romina and Richard

Cormorant

Back to base then for a photo call and for me I was off to get the bus to Iguazu Falls.

Marco and Pablo

Me feeling somewhat more triumphant than on the rafting trip.

Resting

Paradise

Click on an image to enlarge, or for a slideshow.

 

Rafting near Bariloche

San Carlos de Bariloche in Patagonia,(in the Argentina part), is a great place for rafting, kayaking, skiing, depending on the season. Having previously tried rafting when I was in Cusco, and, having to cancel a trip in Arequipa after being delayed on my journey, I was keen to have another go, before returning home.

The Cusco rafting was quite tame, levels 2 and 3, although a great experience. Bariloche was said to be mainly rapids of levels 3 and 4. That sounded good. Within my insurance cover. The site was located over 100kms from Bariloche and was close to the border with Chile.

Rescue Kayak

Great fun!

Tranquilo

Group Photo

There were 2 rafts with 8 of us in each and I was with a very friendly family group who came from Buenos Aires. I volunteered to go in the front and my new friend Tito, was opposite me. All went well, until the most demanding of the rapids. We got a bit out of shape and seemed to be stuck, just being spun around. We lost one person and then Tito became dislodged and was sat on my leg, the raft tipped over and we were all thrown into the water.

Looking Good

Great fun!

Minus One

Spinning

Over it goes

Crewless

Leaving a boat and entering cold water is not a new experience for me. Having said that, when entering the water, I usually have a moment to adjust, as the cold water on my face usually makes me feel nauseous. On this occasion, whilst feeling the nausea, I also felt a sickening blow as I was hit full in the face by someone’s  safety helmet, with all of their body weight plus acceleration, behind it.

I was stunned and sank like a stone. I have to say, I thought that this could be it. I have had a few underwater moments previously but on this occasion was not even able to take a deep breath before going under. The water was deep and cold and I was being spun around. We had been well equipped, with wet suits and life preservers and I was able to suppress the urge to take a breath long enough to get to the surface. My nose was bleeding and I was still a bit stunned but the water temperature helped to keep me focused. It was bloody cold.

Second boat

Attacked By Marie Celeste

Going over

Swept Downriver

The other raft also had problems so there was quite a bit of recovery work to do. I was towed towards the river bank by Martin who was in the recovery kayak and left there while he was busy chasing others. Eventually we were all picked up and the story had a happy ending. We all posed for photos on the Argentina/Chile border. I had thought until now that it was Tito who had crashed into me but after reviewing the photos, it is inconclusive. However, I am looking forward to meeting Tito for a drink in Buenos Aires before I return to the UK.

Group photo at the border with Chile

Pilots

Me and Tito

You have been warned. “Danger, waters deep and cold”.

The Photographer

Frontera

Click on photos to enlarge or for a slide show.

Cerro Campanario and Bariloche

After making a difficult decision about where to go next in Argentina, from El Chaltén, I decided on San Carlos de Bariloche. The deciding factor being, if/when I return to complete my tour of South America, Puerto Madryn, Cordoba, Mendoza etc., are closer to Buenos Aires.

I seem to have a habit of turning up at places when they are closed. This was the case again, in Bariloche. Cerro Catedral, which is said to have a view among the top ten in the world, was shut. On the advice of Jorge, my taxi driver, Andrea at the Adventure Centre and Martin at Hosteria Guemes, where I was staying, I took a trip up to the mirador of Cerro Campanario and I was not disappointed.

By any other name…

Mountains and lake

View of lakes and stunning cloud form.

Lake through the trees.

More lakes, mountains and trees.

Lake and Mountain

Mountains viewed from chairlift. Kind of a stannah stunner.

Thoughts are with the deadwood here.

After descending via the chairlift, I went off searching for more natural beauty. It was not hard to find. El Trébol was a mere 15 minutes away.

Lago

Jetty

Arson attack.

View of a restaurant with a view.

Bird

Graffiti next to the burnt out hotel.

I caught the bus back to the centre of town but before returning to my hotel, I went down to the lakeside and then walked through the plaza, where some musicians were entertaining the public.

Lago Nahuel Huapi

Carved wooden figures beside Lago Nahuel Huapi

Least said…….

Local Rugby Club Band

Local Rugby Club Band

Local Rugby Club Band

Lago Nahuel Huapi

Click on photos to enlarge or for slideshow.

Lago Viedma and Glacier

As well as visiting as many places as possible during my visit to south America, I am also enjoying new experiences. Whilst in El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina, I managed to go ice trekking on the biggest glacier in Patagonia. I have now seen a few glaciers close up but the experience of trekking across one is something not to be missed.

First we had a close look at the glacier from the boat.

Viedma Glacier

Viedma Glacier

On route to Viedma Glacier.

Chunk of oce from Viedma Glacier

Viedma Glacier

Viedma Glacier

Then we disembarked and made our way across the worn rock which used to be covered by the glacier. We were put into groups and assigned to guides and continued to the edge of the glacier, where we put on crampons and had a briefing, before making our way on to the ice.

Leaving the boat.

Nearing the ice

Up close.

Path finder and group leader, Juan.

“Happy Pete”, ice trekking.

Crevasse

Juan, our group leader, was pathfinder and checked each part of the route before showing us how to proceed.

Juan. Pathfinding.

Juan, pondering.

ok, where now?

It could be you!

Leading edge.

A tad dirty round the edges.

After a well conducted tour we had a celebratory drink of Tia Maria with fresh, glacier ice, followed by a walk through an ice cave before doffing our crampons and making our way back to the boat.

Mochi. One of the guides

Worn rock which was previously beneath the glacier.

Celebratory Tia Maria with glacier ice.

Ice Cave

Guides preparing a drink.

More Blue Ice

A great experience!

Click on photos for slide shows or to enlarge.

 

 

Lago Capri and Fitz Roy

After visiting the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina, I thought I was going to be just marking time as I made my way northwards to Iguazu Falls. The next stop on the journey was El Chaltén in Los Glaciares National Park. Until recently, I have to confess, I had not heard of El Chaltén, even though it is famous for various reasons.

I was advised to visit El Chaltén, by one of my Portuguese travelling companions on the Bolivian tour in Uyuni. I am glad I followed his advice, thanks Rodrigo!! However, before you are allowed into the park proper, you are taken from the bus into the Park Rangers´HQ and given a briefing on the history of the park and the rules. The town is new and nowadays is virtually all tourist related.

When I got to the bus station I tried to buy a ticket for 2 days later to continue my journey to Bariloche but I was told that the next bus would be 3 days later. So, luckily, I had to stay an extra day. El Chaltén is worth at least a week for those who have the time and money. Unfortunately, I didn´t have the time but was determined to get the best of it. Depositing my hunchback at the hostel, I immediately set off on a 4 hour hike (roundtrip) to Lake Capri and the Mirador for the mountain, Fitz Roy.

Ascending towards Lake Capri

Fitz Roy

Rio de las Vueltas

Camping? Not my style.

Lago Capri with Fitz Roy in the background.

Glacier at Lago Capri

Large woodpecker.

Lago Capri

Fitz Roy and others.

Lake and Mountains

Click on any photo for slide show.

 

Perito Moreno Glacier

The Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina is just stunning. About 250 square miles of ice, tinted blue and standing proud. It extends from the Andes into Lake Argentina and can be accessed from the town of El Calafate. There is not much else to say about it, except, if you are coming to South America, you have to visit it. It is awesome!

Because the tour was booked in Chile before I left Puerto Natales, Iwas unaware that tickets for the boat trip were not included. The tour guide, Marianna, asked which of us would like to go on the boat. The answer was most of us. However, after visiting the office at the entrance to the park, she told us that there were no spaces left.

I was not happy. I made my feelings known, as did a French couple. The rest of the party just accepted it. Marianna, bless her, when she realised just how disappointed we were to travel all that way and not get what we thought we had already asked for, went off to see if she could get us some places on one of the boats. Fortunately, she was successful. The boat trip was well worth the effort.

From Mirador

From First Balcony

From First Balcony

Blue Veins

Mountain Setting

Lago Argentino

Moulting?

From Lower Balcony

A Tour Boat

From the Boat

Is that a cave?

Snoopy? berg

Bergs

See through

Blue

Click on any photo for a slide show.

Torres del Paine

The Torres del Paine National Park in Chile is huge and comprises of lakes, glaciers and mountains including the world famous “Torres”. On my visit yesterday, I thought my previous comment about me having become ” a tourist in a hurry”, had come back to bite me. The weather was not great, and I was on a one day tour of the park´s highlights.

It did not look too good when at a viewing point of a lake, with a wonderful backdrop of mountains, I was the only one who wanted to get out and take photos. Majority rule had its way and off we went, without pictures. This was repeated several times and I confess to being close to tears at the thought of missing all these opportunities.

The feeling was compounded when we stopped for people to photograph sheep. I kid you not. The group consisted of Chileños, Brazilians, Germans and me. I would hazard a guess and say that it was not a unique experience for any of us to be seeing sheep. The wonderful combination of rivers, glaciers, lakes etc., for me at least, when this adventure is over, may never be repeated. And, as anyone who likes to get good pictures knows, with variable light and conditions, some photo opportunities are unique.

From 8 in the morning until lunchtime, I guess I took about 2 dozen pictures and had no one to blame except myself. I originally planned to spend up to a week trekking in this area as I had in previous settings. If you come to Torres del Paine, give it some time.

Cataratas

Cataratas

Cataratas

Catarata

Cataratas

Bird family oblivious to cataratas

While my travelling companions had lunch and sheltered in the bus from the rain, I decided to go off on my own and search for pictures and was soon rewarded near the Grey Lake and glacier.

Grey Lake, blue ice. Cool.

Grey lake and glacier.

Blue Ice

Grey Lake

Grey Lake

Grey Glacier

When I got back to the vehicle, surprise surprise, the others had ventured out into the elements. Fortunately, in the afternoon, the weather gradually improved and photo ops came with greater frequency.

Lago

Torres y Lago

Torre

Torres y Lago

Torres

Torres y Lago

Torre

Rio

Torre

Rio

Torre

Torres

Torre

Lago

Overall, I was happy with the result. Ironically, I kept back a free day in case things went wrong and the weather was much worse. My luck continues to hold.

Click on photos for slideshow.