Cerro Santa Apolonia

As it was my last full day in Cajamarca, I wanted to make the most of it. It was a nice day with lots of sunshine so I decided to go up to the top of Cerro Santa Aplonia. I had previously gone about half way and taken a few photos but as it was crowded, decided to abandon the trip. As luck would have it, yesterday it was almost deserted.

Cerro Santa Apolonia, was where the Inca emperor Atahualpa had a “throne” and from where he surveyed his army and people.

Very quiet.

 

With amazing views.

 

I had thought that this was the top but there is a small plateau further up which has a pleasant garden area. Entry about 25p.

Was this some sort of sentry box? It is very small.

The emperor´s throne, allegedly.

This cactus looks older and more weary than me.

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Los Baños del Inca

Yesterday I went to the thermal springs known as Los Baños del Inca, Cajamarca. They were famously used by the Inca emperor Atahualpa just before he was captured by the Spanish.

If it was good enough for him, it is good enough for me. It is only a few kilometeres outside of the city of Cajamarca and the taxi fare from the city centre was acceptable, about £2.50 each way.

Where is the water? This can’t be right.

Aah. A modern version. The water looks a bit murky though…

…and a bit hot. Unless that’s piranhas bubbling under the surface.

I am definitely not getting in there.

My private thermal bath. It was luxurious. The water from the thermal spring is at 71°C so needed some cold water added for personal comfort.

There is also an information centre, which has a few artifacts and a photographic exhibition of almost everything of interest in the Cajamarca area. I was shown around by José who patiently explained things to me. Fortunately for me, he did not speak as rapidly as most of the local people.

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Colpa and Cascades

On Monday, I went to Colpa, which used to be a successful farm and now appears to be a successful tourist attraction.It has an artificial lake, complete with artificial islands.

As we arrived, the storm clouds were gathering and it was not long before we were heading for the shelter….

… of the hacienda, as the torrential rain began.

After the downpour subsided, we looked at the farm’s little church….

…which had some nice stained glass windows but not much else.

The farm does have a party trick involving its cows, whereby each one is called by name to go to its individual feeding stall. It is quite clever but I don’t want to get carried away.  The farm, like many others in the area produces a wide range of dairy related foods and drinks.

From the farm we moved off towards our next destination, waterfalls. This involved some walking….

and some balancing to cross a couple of small rivers.

It must have been at least a kilometre walk in each direction but it was worth it.

 

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Granja Porcón

On Saturday, I joined a tour to Granja Porcón, a farming cooperative situated in a dense pine forest about 30 km north-east of the city of Cajamarca. Apart from day visits, the farm offers hands on farm experience and activity holidays.

On the way there we stopped at  a stone-masonry to see some local artisans and their work. I was intrigued by the dump trucks and felt a little nostalgic. I resisted the urge to buy one as they weighed more than 1Kg each. Nevertheless, they were well made.

View on arrival at the farm.

I was lucky to see this bird flying in the distance.

I was even luckier when it turned and flew towards me.

There is also a collection of animals and birds, unrelated to farming.

This pond reminds me of a certain politician’s expense claims.

I felt for a moment as if I was back in the workplace. Ignored and irrelevant.

A pride of lions……

….and a proud peacock.

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Ventanillas de Otuzco

On Friday, after a light lunch in El Zarco restaurant in Cajamarca, I joined a tour to visit the ventanillas de Otuzco. An ancient burial site where the graves are actually set in the cliff face and shaped like windows. Ventanilla deriving from, ventana, the Spanish word for window.

However, I did not realise that first we were going to visit a dairy and then a botanical garden. The dairy, Fundo Los Alpes, produces a great variety of products, some of which we sampled. The dairy has a Swiss owner, hence the name.

I use to eat lots of cheese but am unable to do so these days, so my attention wandered to the outdoors and the ever darkening sky.

May till October is the dry season in the Northern Highlands of Perú but can be unpredictable.

After the dairy, there was another stop at a botanical garden but I felt as if we may not have seen the best of it.

Finally arriving at the ventanillas at the same time as the heavy rain commenced.

The ventanillas have varying depths. Some single occupancy and others multiple. Much like a backpacker´s hostel.

Arriving back at the Plaza de Armas, as the rain had stopped, I decided on an early dinner.

After dinner, before going back to my hotel, I decide to try photographing some illuminated structures.

This was about the 10 th attempt at this one but it was more than 500 metres away and up a lot of steps.I was not prepared to make the climb just after dinner.

The cathedral, in the Plaza de Armas.

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Cumbe Mayo

Yesterday I joined a tour going to Cumbe Mayo, which is the site of a pre-Incan aqueduct. It is situated in the area of a “stone forest”, which has eroded over time and has taken on an extraordinary form. Apparently the locals can see various bird and animal shapes and even monks, in the formations. I was not able to discern all of the shapes but perhaps I was not understanding what was being said. Never mind, I was just happy to enjoy the rock.

There is a museum complex being built – tastefully.

View from the museum.

A viewing point for petroglyphs.

Unfortunately my photo does not show the petroglyphs very clearly.

Queuing to enter a very narrow “tunnel”. Once in, you had to keep going as there was not room to turn.

It was totally dark inside….

….with the welcome light at the end of the tunnel.

The locals were happy to pose for a photo – for a small fee.

The aqueduct was constructed with just a slight gradient.

 I did manage to spot the bird shape here. There was some debate as to whether it was an eagle or condor.

I thought it was a giant stonechat.

I bought two hard boiled eggs from this lady for my lunch.

A clearer example of a petroglyph.

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Cajamarca

After two months, the time finally came to leave Lima.  I travelled up to Cajamarca on an overnight bus journey lasting more than fifteen hours. The journey was not unpleasant – for me anyway, as I slept fairly well. I don’t doubt that my sleeping must have annoyed the other passengers. I soon got settled into my hotel, the cheap but cheerful, Hostal Giraflores, which is more comfortable than the penthouse in Lima.

Cajamarca is famous for being the place where the Spanish conquered the Incas but it is also blessed with being surrounded by natural beauty. In the ten days that I will spend here, I hope to see as much as possible. At first look, the tour prices seem reasonable so I may rely on them rather than find my own way around. Except of course, for the city itself, which I have already been exploring on foot.

The Plaza de Armas was a good place to start.

The cathedral.

The church of San Francisco.

All of the tour operators and money changers seem to be in or close to the Plaza de Armas.

There are some steep hills but I feel happier walking here than I did in Lima. It certainly is more tranquil.

Looking toward the Cerro Santa Apolonia

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Waterfall and Lagunas

After travelling up from Lima to Canta on Saturday we found a hotel at a reasonable cost with average accommodation. The Cancay Vento Hotel was comfortable enough but you have to be quick if you want a warm or hot shower. The hot water does not last long. Tired from the early start and the arduous journey, I had an early night and was up early raring to go the next day.

Things went somewhat awry, as our travelling companions of the previous day were not going to be joining us due to some family matter, as far as I could tell. So, after breakfast, Sonia and I decided to join a minibus tour about to depart for the local highlights. This was to include a visit to some small lakes at 4,500 metres above sea level, a height I had never attained before without the aid of an aeroplane. Having read about altitude sickness, I was prepared for it, should it occur. Canta, where we had stayed the night is at 2,800 metres and I was feeling fine.

The first stop we made was aptly named San Pedro.

San Pedro

A view of the road we were on. A 3 point turn would be interesting.

The quaint village of Cullhuay  let down by discrimination against men.  The gents toilet was locked.

On to the waterfall. I had to wait ages to get a picture without people. Incredible how crowded it can get.

Laguna Chanchun

Laguna de Siete Colores

I could just see the top of the roof of this bungalow from the edge of the lagoon so set off at sub-mountain goat speed, which slowed to sub-tortoise speed as the altitude started to affect me. It was worth it though.

On the way back we stopped for lunch at a trout farm, Picigranja Huaras. Yes, trout again but it was fresh from the tank to the table. The farm is situated in a picturesque valley.

That was the end of the tour. I have to give credit to the minibus driver as he was fully competent and did not give any anxious moments. Also the journey back to Lima was easier as it was Sunday evening and there was not much work taking place. When the roadworks are complete, the Canta region and Obrajillo, in particular will deservedly get a boost in visitors.

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The Road to Canta

My last weekend in Lima was spent out of the city but still within the province of Lima. A trip to the region of Canta in the Andes, North East of the city of Lima. I went with my friend Sonia, her work colleague, Jonathan and 2 more members of his family. As seems to be the way here, in Lima at least, the travel arrangements were slightly complicated. Half an hour´s walk to the Metropolitano station, travel to the furthest station and be collected by Jonathan´s family in their car. It was comfortable enough for the 5 of us. To begin with at least.

I had been told that the road we were going on was not exactly motorway standard. Well, we had not gone far out of Lima, when I realised that the road was just an endless series of potholes. It is currently being upgraded and there is work going on at various sites on the road. The problem is that the cars have to share the road with the trucks and earth’moving equipment.

After a while the others decide to stop for some food, I was not fussed as I had left the penthouse at 06.00, having had my usual banana for breakfast. I gave in when I was asked to try some “chirimoya“, although it did look odd. But then so does a pineapple.

     

It has a very sweet flesh but seems to have more pips than a pomegranate.

 

 

 

 

 

Suitably refreshed, we continued our journey through numerous patches of major roadworks.

 

 

 

After working in quarries and on major construction projects for many years, I thought I had seen most things. I have never seen anything quite like this though.

                                                       The drilling rig was working just above the “road.

                                                      The 360 excavator was hurling rocks on to the road below.

 The shovel operator must have felt invulnerable, sitting as close as he was to the tumbling rock face. A contractor´s sign proclaimed. “1,000,000 hours without accidents”. I am struggling with that.

Eventually, after about 5 hours but which seemed like an eternity, with the poor car taking a battering underneath from the uneven surface and rocks, we turned off the highway and stopped at a lovely little watering hole. Well, a hole with water in.

                                 

                                                  From  there we travelled a short distance into a valley, to a place called Obrajillo,

…….where we stopped for lunch.

                                  

                                                              I had trout which was  caught in the river running through the valley.

  After lunch we went up to a small village with some stunning views….

                                                                                      ….and some not so stunning.

After visiting the sweet little village of San Miguel…..

                                                                           …we moved on to Canta where we stayed the night.

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Cats in the Park

Whilst walking through Parque Kennedy in Miraflores, Lima, recently, I commented to my friend that there seemed to be a lot of cats either in or around the park.      

Everywhere I looked there seem to be cats. Oops!! Sorry, wrong park.

 ( They look remarkably similar to me.)

It seems though, the cat population of Kennedy Park used to be more than 100 and was a popular attraction to both tourists and a significant amount of locals. There is however, an opposing faction, people who don’t like cats. They have campaigned to have the cats removed and if necessary, put down. It would appear that a local priest is one of those unhappy with the presence of the cats and was even, allegedly, accused of killing or kidnapping some of the unfortunate creatures. Which he denies. Also, allegedly, he prevented the rescue of a cat which was trapped in the church tower.

Many of the cats have been adopted and now live in good homes. Those remaining being totally oblivious to the divide they have created in public opinion.   I have to include a pic of the house cat where I live.  Scrawny yet endearing. How could you not like a cat?  They are right up there with guinea pigs for me.

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